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礼服 attire [ə'taɪə]n. 服装；盛装 vt. 打扮；使穿衣
出土 unearthed [ʌn’ɝθ]adj. 采掘出的；未接地 v. 发掘；破获（unearth的过去分词）
礼记 The Book of Rites

Zhiju is akind of Shenyi which makes the upper part of the garment and lower part to forma unity. Therewere two types of garments: the curving garment with the collar wrapping theneck down to the axilla; the straight garment(Zhiju) with the collar werestraightly down to the lower part. The collar was hanging down beside the bodyor behind the body. It was not stitched on the lace-up of the garment, whichmeans Zhiju need cloth strap or leather belt to fix it.
直裾是华夏衣冠体系中深衣制的一种，上下连裳。深衣按衣襟绕襟与否分为直裾、曲裾。直裾深衣不绕襟，衣裾在身侧或侧后，没有缝在衣服上的系带，用布带或者皮革制成的腰带固定。

History: Zhiju was derived from Quju.Zhiju was available to both men and women in the Western Han dynasty(the earlyHan dynasty,B.C.202—A.D.9). However, it was informal which could not take on asformal attire. At that time, Liang Dang Ku was very prevalent. If Zhiju wastaken on, pants would be exposed, which was regarded as impolite. Later on,with the improvement of underclothes(the appearance of pants with crotch),Zhiju became a fashion, a major mode of Shenyi since the Eastern Handynasty(the later Han dynasty A.D.25—A.D.220).
历史发展：直裾由曲裾发展而来，汉代的直裾男女均可穿着。这种服饰早在西汉时就已出现，但不能作为正式的礼服。因为当时流行连裆裤，直裾不能遮住裤子，会被视为不恭敬。后来由于内衣的改进（有裆的裤子出现），至东汉以后，直裾逐渐普及，成了深衣的主要模式。
Zhiju was archaeological called “Zhijurobe”, because the robe’s name had not be recorded officially. It’s just named by archaeologistswho discovered two types of robe in “the Han dynasty and the Warring states”which were called “Quju robe” and “Zhiju robe” respectively.
直裾深衣在考古上称为“直裾袍”，因为这种袍服书上并无特别称谓，是考古学者对“汉代和战国时期”出土两种长袍做的区分称呼，即“曲裾袍”和“直裾袍”。
However, garment maker did not consultmuch unearthed objects when they first started to make it. Instead, theyreferred to the Book of Rites and later added records in Song and Ming dynasty.Therefore, the garment made by now is far away from the one in history.
但是，最初制作的时候，制作者并没有参考多少出土实物，而是以《礼记》记载为主，后来参入了宋明时期的深衣记载，所以，做出来的直裾深衣跟出土实物相差甚远。
The pattern of Zhijuis changeable due to different garment maker in different time. They aredifferent in details and any other aspects. Zhiju now, is probably acombination of Shenyi in each period and dynasty.
现在的“直裾深衣”，从最初制作出来到现在，直裾深衣的样式随着制作者的不同，细节等方面差异很多，现在差不多是各个时代直裾深衣的综合体。

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http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzA5MTg5MDg2OA==&mid=453605828&idx=1&sn=e8cfeb8904265aef6cc3adab54041ef6&scene=23&srcid=02248VCv496n2k3dUyNcVlFd#rd

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文案来源：网络整理
音乐来源：Daydream 《Again》
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